It seems months since I wrote anything . The hip operation went well but I didn’t anticipate the length of the recovery period. I am walking with a stick, a progression from crutches. I can nearly walk unaided but my hip muscles need to be a bit stronger to hold me upright and level. I lurch rather than walk. One of the most frustrating aspects of all this is being unable to bend to adjust the loom. I have had to wait until this week before doing my first sample piece!
I have kept in touch with all your blogs, which have kept me inspired and feeling part of a network. Three weeks ago I went to my first meeting of Hampshire Weavers, Spinners and Dyers. It was an open meeting for new members and the hall was full of spinning wheels, table looms and an outdoor dying session. Before the meeting finished I had arranged the purchase of a second hand warping mill and half a fleece!
During the last few weeks I have also spent money buying weaving books. I rationalised this splurge of spending by telling myself that it was less expensive than going on a course! I read reviews on blogs and bought Deborah Chandler’s “ Learning to Weave”, Peggy Osterkamp’s “Warping Your Loom” and Anne Dixon’s “Handweavers Pattern Book.”. There are two more on order , both practical , one on scarves and the other towels. I want an 8-shaft pattern book but I have only set up 4 shafts while I am learning. The thought of adjusting 8 is rather daunting
A week ago I felt ready to start. I am not in possession of warping mill yet , I collect it next week. So I had to resort to two chairs upside down.
I do not recommend this. The chairs walk even when weighted down and its almost impossible to maintain an even tension.I decided to work quietly through Deborah Chandler as I liked the illusrations and she gives several alternative warping methods. I think I was also influenced by the fact that each chapter is a lesson with tasks to practice! I followed instructions to set up a 2 metre long and 10″ warp in stripes.
I have got many cones of yarn because I also have a knitting machine. Some of it is good quality some cheap bin ends. My daughter studied Textiles at college and specialised in Constructed Textiles. She had given me about 20 cones of cotton/silk which she had used when she was designing. I found it difficult deciding what to use for this sample. I somehow didn,t want to waste the good stuff but the wool was dull. A mainly grey and navy selection. In the end I treated myself to the silk/cotton realising that first attempts with rubbish would probably lead to disaster. Actually that nearly happened anyway. I followed Chandlers first method method, warping front to back and selecting the ends for threading directly from a cross held in place by ones hand. Never never again. I was clumsy and tense and in a hurry and I managed to miss/drop one whole stripe without noticing until I finished. The warp had become a slippery tangled mess which I battled with to get tied on.
This was the first warp I had ever had on my Bergman. It wasn’t perfect by any means but I can’t describe the pleasure I felt when I started actual weaving. I found that I was spending masses of time adjusting, and I am still never sure which adjustment will resolve what problem. Some shafts produce a perfect shed, other an uneven tiny one. I tried a small example of twill and then decided it would be better to concentrate on tabby and develop the physical skill and rhythm of weaving, getting the treadle changes and beating right. And tell me how you find treadles 5 and 6 without looking! Also does everyone weave in bare feet? Shoes are too big and I found I was pushing on to two treadles by mistake. I felt rather proud when I finished the length got it off the loom. I think it looks rather like something an Ancient Briton might wear!!!
By the time I had woven some bulgy and wobbly inches I gradually improved. This is the best bit washed and pressed. I’ve hidden the funny lumpy bits. I did feel that this could have been a scarf and wearable if longer!!!
I have just measured another warp longer this time, but still on chairs. I used the same yarn as before and in the same stripes. I like the natural cotton/silk and the browny grey combination. I hoped to experiment with twill and realised I needed a selvedge. I used a floating selvedge as it seemed easy. It was hard to warp because I can’t really walk without a stick but it was impossible to walk up and down the length with one. I lurched up and down and developed back ache and a warp but rather an uneven one. I am being philosophical about this . As I am weaving in less than perfect circumstances things can only improve with a mill!!
This time I read Peggy Osterkamp. Now here is a clear. well illustrated and user friendly book. This time I was warping back to front. I had to make a raddle ( with some help). and had difficulty finding any space long enough for warp raddle and lease sticks as instructed. Although I understood what I was supposed to be doing there is a difference between head knowledge and body knowledge. I dropped things and although I tried winding the warp on a stick instesd of chaining as Osterkamp suggested to maintain tension I lost it when trying to get raddle fixed to loom. I couldn.t find a good position on the Bergman and I had failed to track down clamps. A thoughtful weaver gathers all necessary tools before starting !! I have learnt lots of moral advice. Also I had only made 1″ spaces on the raddle which are too wide. but we learn from our mistakes.
My daughter visited for the weekend.She is a product manager in the fashion industry.She would love to get out and weave. She is excited about me weaving and wanted to come and try. She wove at college but on computerised looms and I wondered what she would make of my Bergman. Particularly the frequent adjustments. We had great fun together. We worked through the twill section of Ann Dixon’s Handweavers Pattern Book, interspersed with some Hopsack. We took it in turns shouting out the treadling and sharing winding shuttles. Another lack, I have no winder and at the moment have to wind manually. Tedious. Any suggestions for adapting household implements gratefully received. Winders are expensive.
Zoe returned to London intent on buying a loom, but not an antique one she stipulated!.. She is looking for a modern folding loom with at least 8-shafts. I think it is easier in the US to buy looms, there are not many opportunities here.
I am still a bit in the dark over the adjustments. I found one of Leighs past posts on achieving a good shed in Warping the Glimakra July 11,2007. It clarified a lot though I am still finding it hard to do.
I hadn’t appreciated the importance of treadle tension. It definately helped though I still find inconsistancy between shafts. Some sheds are excellent but not all. This photo shows a fairly even shed with the floating selvedge thread.. Later I found I could get it larger but not consistantly so.
I am thinking and dreaming weaving. I am surprised how it has taken over my head. Its wonderful! There are a so many projects to try. I will be apprehensive about a wider warp and getting the shed good enough to throw a shuttle through on its own. I will follow Trapuntos advice in Warping a Bergman. Warp front to back re-sley the reed. I don’t think the raddle is essential
This photo shows my only reed. Its original and came with the loom. It is 15 dent and rusty, which is obvious from the photo. I have tried to clean it but not very well. I threaded it xxx0 to achieve 12 epi and actually it worked fine and the rust didn’t come off. I wouldn’t want to try it with a good quality fine yarn though. I an going to buy a new stainless steel one. I think a 10 dent one. Again as I can’t afford several would this be a sensible size?
I have used the end of my sample warp to weave a real scarf. Its still on the go but I feel I’m really weaving!!!





Hi Deborah. Reading this made my day! I’m so excited for you! And so impressed!
I do think your cloth looks like something to pull around your shoulder against the wind as your hurry off to your Celtic round house with a bundle of herbs. I’m fond of those colors too. In fact, your post was so inspiring and sparked so many ideas that I am going to go write a blog entry, instead of leaving a long reply here.
I will say that just a few days ago I came across a blog with a weaver who had clever arrangement of clamps and an old hand drill as a substitute for a quill/bobbin winder, but now I can’t remember where I saw it! I’ll send you the link if I find it again.
Deborahbee, thank you for visiting my blog and for your kind comment. Congratulations on your first piece! I agree that adjusting the shed isn’t easy and I admit that I sometimes still have some trouble.
The relationship of the treadles and sheds has to do with how evenly the treadles open the shafts to make the bottom of the shed. If some threads on the bottom of the shed are too high, then the treadle isn’t pulling the shaft down far enough. If some of the threads are too low, then they are being pulled down too far. What makes it even more confusing is trying to figure out which lamm ties to adjust – the shorter (to adjust the bottom of the shed) or the longer ones (to adjust the top of the shed)!
I can’t recommend Joanne Hall’s book, _Tying Up the Countermarch Loom_ enough. If you don’t have it yet, it’s an excellent resource. It’s available on her website, Elkhorn Mountain Weaving – http://www.glimakrausa.com/
[...] 14, 2008 Just what I needed this morning: an injection of weaverly enthusiasm from fellow Bergman loom owner Deborah in the UK! This is her first blog entry since her hip operation in August, and I was blown away [...]
Deborah, it’s lovely to see your loom working! I’m so glad you’ve recovered enough from your surgery to start weaving again. And you’ve actually completed your first project! Your speediness is making everything blur around me…
I have the same opinion as you about buying books rather than taking a class. I love the Peggy Osterkamp books! (I have her second and third) — they are wonderfully clear. I may spring for the first at some point down the line if I have the extra funds.
If you don’t want to invest in a bobbin winder yet, try using a drill with a piece of metal rod for a bit (to put the bobbin on). (oops, just saw Trapunto post on the same above.)
I’m not an expert, but after looking over the page in Deborah Chandler’s book on sleying substitutions (near the back of the book), it seemed to me that if I could only have two reeds, the first would be a 12-dent, and the second a 10.
Congratulations on getting your Bergman working. You’re making me very anxious to start!
have you tried pegging the chairs down as if they were tents? might help, i dunno. probably gettin a bit cold for working outdoors now, it is up here. mind you, it’s always to windy to do anything at all up here, but that’s another story.
here, as 8 shaft or however-many-shaft patterns go, you should look at
http://www.handweaving.net
it has a big draft archive, and you can search by number of shafts and number of treadles, and what type of weave it’s in, it’s a fantastic website.
luck
-a
“Wandered” over here from Trapunto and must comment on your lovely finished piece. Your enthusiasm is contageous! I’m going to do some threading tomorrow as I’ve “not found the time” to weave for way too long. Thanks!
Reeds – yes, 10 is very useful. I use this and 12 epi a lot, I’ve been weaving with 2/6, 2/10, and 2/12 cotton yarns.
I have 4, 5 and 8 epi for heavy cloth and rugs.
I am planning 20 epi when I go on to finer yarns. I’d quite like 15 as well.
I buy stainless steel reeds from Don Porritt ( 01993 878329), his prices (and the reeds) are very good.
If you haven’t got back to my blog yet, I highly recommend William Hall & Co for yarns, 0161-437 3295.
For Zoe, the best available folding 8 shafts in the UK seem to be the Harris folding countermarch from Handweaver’s Studio and the Schacht Wolf and Baby Wolf looms from Fibrecrafts. All hard to get 2nd hand.
Your sample’s best bits are certainly looking good!
I get different sheds for different treadles. Sometimes one that’s very good is good at the expense of one that is poor, so aim for a reasonable average. If one shed isn’t opening well, my method is to hold the treadle down and look for the tie which is restricting it. Sometimes a tie to an upper lam is too short, always something somewhere is making a “stop” in the movement. Move the treadle gently and see what causes the shaft movement to stop.